Design to IRL

1. In your CAD model, click on utilities, and then the 3D Print icon (2nd one). 

2. In the model, select which body or component you want to 3D print. Make sure that the option "Send to 3D Print Utility" is not ticked. Click ok and store the file somewhere you can find it again.

3. Open PrusaSlicer. If the Configuration Wizard pops up, click on "Prusa FFF", and then the 0.4 mm nozzle for the Original Prusa Mini & Mini +. If you want, click "View mode", and then Expert mode. Click Finish.

4. Add your CAD model onto the bed using the button with a cube and a plus on it. To orient it, click on the model, and then the button on the left titled "place on face", then click on which face you want on the bottom. You can copy and paste using Ctrl + C and Ctrl + V, and auto arrange using the fourth button on the top. MAKE SURE YOUR PRINT BED IS NOT TOO FULL

5. Make sure that your filament matches what you are actually printed with (generic will do), and have some fun looking through the settings. Modify infill and add supports as needed. 

6. Once done with settings, click "Slice now" and make sure the preview looks accurate to what you are expecting. 

7. If it looks good, get a USB from the Prusas, plug it in, and click Export G-Code. Save it to the USB (I recommend: file_name (value_in_print_settings, filament_type) ) If not, go back to step 5.

8. Eject and unplug the USB, and put it into the Prusa you got it from. Turn on the Prusa, and make sure you load the right filament. 

9. Finally, find where you stored it in the USB (most recent saved on top), and print it.

IMPORTANT: ONLY USE COMPUTER #12 FOR THIS

1. In a Fusion model, project all sketch objects you are trying to laser cut onto one sketch. 

2. Export a sketch as a DXF by right clicking on it in the sidebar on the left.

3. Open Adobe Illustrator and make an account (if needed, it's free with your school account).

4. Create a custom preset, with a width of 18 inches, a height of 12 inches, and color mode RGB

5. Place your DXF file (Ctrl+Shift+P) on the top left corner (it will say "intersect"). Resize it to match the desire size

6. Change the stroke to 0.001 pt and make the color red (255r, 0g, 0b, #FF0000).

7. Turn on the laser cutter and the fan, and plug it into your computer.

8. Print using Ctrl + P. Change the printer to Epilog Engraver Win64, then click setup and preferences.

9. Change the job type to vector, deselect "send to manager", change the piece size to 18 by 12, and edit the power, speed, and frequency based on the material you are cutting.

10. Once done, click, ok, print, and then select print again. This should send it to the laser cutter (check the screen)

11. Print by hitting the green button. Make sure you supervise the print, but don't stare at the laser.

IMPORTANT: ONLY USE COMPUTER #12 FOR THIS

WIP

IMPORTANT: ONLY USE COMPUTER #11 FOR THIS

1. Save a sketch on Fusion 360 as a .dxf file. To the left of your screen will be a sketches folder, open it and find your sketch. Right click on the sketch and select "Save As DXF"

2. Open Adobe Illustrator. Make a new file with the dimensions of the vinyl (width is the main part to worry about, as the length will be quite high due to being a roll of vinyl). For the height try to keep the value as low as possible, making it around the size of your end product cut. 

3. Once you have made the file, go File -> Place and select your saved .dxf file. Place the model at the bottom left corner, and leave some space between the edges to make peeling the vinyl easier. Make sure your size is at the desired amount, as an excessively large design will waste vinyl. 

4. Once you are ready to export to the vinyl cutter, go to File -> Cutting Master 4 -> Cut/Plot, and verify all the laser cutter settings are correct. 

5. The next step is to set up the laser cutter. Turn it on and then click on 2, which will prompt the machine into measuring the sheet and setting the x and y axis. Select your origin (ideally minimizing vinyl waste) and then connect your computer to the vinyl cutter via USB.

6. On the Cutting Master 4 page, select Send to let the vinyl cutter complete the task. 

7. Once the vinyl is done, use scissors/utility knife to cut the patterned vinyl section off.

8. Use [INSERT TOOL OR JUST USE HANDS/SCREWDRIVER] to peel away the unnecessary vinyl. The only pattern on the clear heat tape should be your design. 

IMPORTANT: THERE IS A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT OF HEAT INVOLVED, RESPECT THE EQUIPMENT. 

1. Lift the lid of the press (the black handle) all the way back. It will take some finagling but the power switch is under the electronic display so turn it on, which will prompt the screen. The temperature should be set to 275 Fahrenheit, wait for the press to heat up- it will obnoxiously beep when its finished heating. 

2. Swing the heatblock around counter-clockwise to free up the heatsink, where you will place your article of clothing. 

3. Place your pattern sticky side onto the shirt (the transparent heat tape) in the ideal location then place on the heatsink, pattern facing the sky. 

4. Swing the heating element to the front again, covering the clothing. 

5. Press down on the the handle until you feel a solid thunk- it takes a lot of effort which may including literally jumping to gain leverage. 

6. The screen will count down 30 seconds, let the heat do its work. Once it beeps, lift the heating block up (which again takes a lot of effort) and swing it around to get an unobstructed access to the clothing. 

7. The heat tape will be extremely hot, so wait around 30 seconds for it to cool, then peel it off. The vinyl should be fused to the clothing now.